Lucerne is a tourist favourite partly because it embodies the storybook image of a Swiss town. Located at the north end of the lake, the city abounds in narrow cobblestone streets, slender spires and turrets, covered bridges, frescoed houses, and fountains. Its residents are quick to tell you that you're "never very far from the snow" -- Mounts Rigi and Pilatus form the southern gate to the city, and the snowcapped Alps loom in the distance.
Lucerne's strategic gateway to the south and the rich markets of Italy lie between Rigi and Pilatus. The city is a renowned cultural center. Richard Wagner spent several of his most productive years in Tribschen, on the outskirts of Lucerne (there's a Wagner museum here). Arturo Toscanini was a founder of the Lucerne International Festival of Music, one of the most important musical events in Europe, which takes place annually in August and September.
The residents of Lucerne are a sports-oriented people. Every summer there are international rowing regattas on Rotsee. Swimmers go to the lido (lake beach) and golfers head for the 18-hole golf course on the outskirts. Other sports include tennis, hiking, and mountaineering. Residents seem especially fond of horse races, and there are plenty of international jumping contests.
You'll find Lucerne at its best on Tuesday and Saturday mornings, when it becomes a lively market town. The markets are sheltered by stately arcades on both banks of the Reuss River.
LOCATION AND CLIMATE
Lucerne is situated at the end of the Lake Lucerne at 436 meters above sea level, and nestled between gently rolling hillsides. The relatively low to medium temperature of 10°C (50°F) should not discourage you. Warm and cold temperatures are fairly well balanced with the changing seasons.
HOW TO GET THERE
By Train Lucerne is situated on the most important route running from north to south and is connected with the Swiss railway network. Direct fast trains link Lucerne to the international airports in Zurich, Basel and Geneva.
By Plane The international airports in Zurich, Basel and Geneva are only a short trip by car to Lucerne, and are also well connected with direct fast trains. Distances : Airport Zurich: 65 km Airport Basel: 110 km Airport Geneva: 250 km
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Lucerne is one of Switzerland's most charming medieval cities. The Old Town has many interesting sites, which you can easily see on foot. Make your first stop the Kapellebrucke: The covered bridge and octagonal water tower are one of the most photographed sites in Switzerland. Be sure to walk across the bridge and look at the paintings of Lucerne's history on the ceiling. Near the southern end of the bridge are the Jesuitenkirche, one of the oldest baroque churches in Switzerland, and the Rittersche Palast, an Italian Renaissance villa that is now the seat of government for the canton. On the opposite side of the Reuss River are the Weinmarkt, Hirschenplatz and Kornmarkt, three squares surrounded by buildings with painted facades. The Renaissance-style Rathaus (town hall) is on the Kornmarkt.
The Museggmauer was part of the city's medieval wall. Nine towers remain—the Zytturm, with its large clock dating to 1535, is the most impressive. Another covered bridge, the Spreuerbrucke, ws also once part of the city's fortifications. Don't miss the macabre paintings of the Dance of Death on its ceiling. Farther away from the city center is the Lion Monument, a dramatic rock sculpture of a dying lion that pays tribute to the Swiss Guards who fought and died protecting Louis XVI during the French Revolution.
More recent attractions include the Kultur- und Kongresszentrum (a multipurpose complex designed by Jean Nouvel, which also houses the Kunstmuseum), Sammlung Rosengart (paintings by 19th- and 20th-century masters) and the Picasso Museum. Opera fans will want to visit the Richard Wagner Museum. The Gletschergarten has an eclectic display of petrified mussels and palm leaves from the Ice Age, the oldest relief maps of Switzerland and a scale model of the city of Lucerne. For armchair rock climbers, the Alpineum is a good choice. It has large-scale, three-dimensional paintings of Switzerland's most famous mountain areas. The Bourbaki Panorama has one of the oldest and largest round paintings in the world.
Just outside the town center (along the lake) is the Verkehrshaus der Schweiz, one of the best transportation museums in the world. There are many trains on display (from elaborate model railways to full-size locomotives), an extensive airplane collection, an IMAX theater and a planetarium.
Also be sure to take the trip via cable car from Kriens to Mount Pilatus, a huge mountain adjacent to the city, for lunch and a great view. To get back, take what's locally claimed to be the steepest cogwheel railway in the world to the town of Alpnachstad and board a steamer for Lucerne (this is really an all-day event). Other pleasant trips can be taken to Mount Rigi or Mount Titlis; both can be reached by cable car. A half-day trip can be taken to the town of Altdorf, where the mythical figure of William Tell was supposed to have lived. Someone in town will be happy to take you to the site of the legend and give you the local version of events. If time permits, go high up in the hills on the other side of the lake (opposite Lucerne) to Burgenstock, an old-world-style resort area with charming hotels and outstanding views of the lake and environs. 35 mi/55 km southwest of Zurich.
RESTUARANT REVIEW
Rotes Gatter In the Hotel des Balances Weinmarkt
At this recommended hotel in Altstadt, opening onto the historic Weinmarkt, is one of the city's exceptional restaurants. The building housing it was the town jail back in 1369, but it was converted into a restaurant in 1519. Its terrace, with a view of the river Reuss, is one of the most hotly contested seats in town on a balmy summer night. Its refined nouvelle-inspired cuisine attracts both locals and visitors.
The decor is a stylish combination of medieval masonry, 19th-century wrought iron, and postmodern, hi-tech lighting. Try such tempting dishes as freshwater crabs grilled with feta cheese and marinated herbs; filets of pike-perch with olive oil and artichoke hearts; roasted rabbit stuffed with chanterelles and basil; Sisteron lamb in puff pastry with olive oil and thyme juices; and breast of chicken stuffed with shrimp and dill, on a bed of marinated sweet peppers.
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