A baroque city on the banks of the Salzach River, Salzburg is the beautiful capital of Land Salzburg. This former site of the Roman town of Juvavum is set against a pristine mountain backdrop. The city and the river were named after the early residents who earned their living in the region's salt mines.
This "heart of the heart of Europe" is the city of Mozart, who was born here in 1756. And the composer's association with the city continues to draw loads of tourists and tourist revenue. You can visit this favorite son's birthplace, the Geburtshaus, an old burgher's house.
The Old Town lies on the left bank of the river, where a monastery and bishopric were founded in A.D. 700. From that simple start, Salzburg grew in power and prestige, becoming an archbishopric see in 798. At the height of the prince-archbishop's power, the city was known as the "German Rome." On medieval maps, the little province of Land Salzburg was titled "church lands." Long a part of the Holy Roman Empire, Land Salzburg was joined to Austria in 1816 following the Congress of Vienna.
Salzburg, a city of 17th- and 18th-century houses, is internationally known for its architectural grandeur. Much of the work was done by the masters of the baroque, Fischer von Erlach and Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt. The Salzburg Cathedral is the first deliberately Italian-style church to be built north of the Alps. Several beautiful castles and palaces dot the city: Hohensalzburg Fortress, the former stronghold of the prince-archbishops of Salzburg; Residenz, an opulent palace and seat of the Salzburg prince-archbishops after they abandoned the gloomy Hohensalzburg; and Schloss Hellbrunn, 5km (3 miles) south of the city, summer residence of the prince-archbishops. The beautifully baroque Mirabell Gardens were laid out by the famous Fischer von Erlach.
The city is the setting for The Salzburg Festival, a world-renowned annual event that attracts music lovers, especially Mozart fans, from all over the globe. Salzburg was also the setting for The Sound of Music; yes, the hills are alive with music -- and reachable by tour.
WHEN TO GO
Salzburg, next to the Prealps, has a fairly classic Alpine climate, meaning long, dry, snow-laden winters and short, hot summers. The latter is a busy and exciting season, thanks partly to the Salzburg Festival (though there's plenty of music year-round). Winter is also busy. A ski shuttle service ferries snow bunnies to surrounding resorts, while, in town, in December, there's a world of Christmas markets, Glüwein, and carols. Joseph Mohr, composer of "Silent Night," was born here, after all. Visit anytime in 2006 for maximum Mozart—an endless stream of events is planned.
HOW TO GET THERE
AIRPORT
Salzburg has a compact airport two miles from the city center.
To get oriented—historically and geographically—begin with a tour of Festung Hohensalzburg, the large white castle that looms on a cliff above the historic quarter; you can get there via a funicular railway or take a 20-minute walk. After taking a self-guided audio tour of the castle, you'll have a vivid understanding of life in medieval Salzburg. Next, investigate the Residenz, a palace that provides insight into the court life of the Hapsburgs. And after that, simply explore the streets, taking care not to miss Mozart's birthplace (which houses a surprisingly modest array of articles related to his life), Franziskanerkirche (a stunning baroque high altar and chapels) and the cemetery behind St. Peter's Church that contains catacombs. As you're strolling, keep an ear open for tunes played by the glockenspiel in the belfry of what is now a post office. And, if you haven't visited many classical European cathedrals, step inside the Dom (you can't miss the cathedral's twin green towers). Finish off the day with a meal or drink at one of Salzburg's local eateries or beer gardens. Or, listen to street performers play tunes on Mozartplatz.
The primary attraction on the other side of the river is Schloss Mirabell, a palace with gardens. Built for the mistress of a prince, it is now home to impressive gardens as well as a building (Zauberflotenhauschen) where Mozart's The Magic Flute was said to have been composed. Nearby is the Mozarteum, containing concert halls, and the Salzburg Marionette Theater, which performs—among other works—Mozart's operas. If you travel a little south of the Mozarteum, you can visit Mozart's Wohnhaus where he lived for seven years (1773-80).
On the outskirts of the city is one of Salzburg's top attractions, Hellbrunn Castle. Its water gardens (operating only in the summer) are great fun, especially for children. When Archbishop Markus Sitticus built the place in the 1600s, he had trick fountains mounted in the floors and walls. To satisfy his quirky sense of humor, he occasionally sprayed his guests by activating a secret mechanism.
There are many other things to see and do in the area. Within a short drive in any direction are mountains, gardens and beautiful lakes (Traunsee, Wolfgangsee and Attersee are the best known). The view is spectacular from atop Untersberg peak (6,022 ft/1,853 m), which is reached by cable car. Health spas and good downhill and cross-country skiing are available nearby. It's also possible to take tours just over the border into Bavaria in Germany.
Some of Salzburg's annual festivals are Mozart Week (January); Fasching, or Carnival (beginning of February); the Easter Festival (March or April); Salzburger Festspiele (July to August); and the Christmas Markets (December). The city truly comes alive during these times. Be sure to book hotel rooms far in advance (or stay in one of the many bed-and-breakfasts or private residences that are available outside the city). Salzburg is 155 mi/240 km west of Vienna.
RESTAURANT REVIEWS
ESSZIMMER
Müllner Hautpstrasse 33
Salzburg
Tel: 662 87 0899
www.esszimmer.com
Andreas Kaiblinger, chef of the late, lamented foodie destination Perkeo, opened this stunningly contemporary place in summer 2004. The four separate weekly changing seasonal menus are ambitious enough to give Kaiblinger a chance to regain the Michelin star he won at Perkeo, though it's hard to concentrate on the plate with so much eye candy. Ocher, vermilion, and polished concrete walls set off multicolored chairs, videos are screened, and there's a glass installation allowing diners to peer into the Almkanal flowing practically through the room.
M 32
Mönchsberg Museum of Modern Art
Mönchsberg 32
Salzburg
Tel: 662 84 1000
www.m32.at
A restaurant fabulous enough to stand up to the art and architecture of the adjoining museum. The central design feature is itself a work of art: a 500-antler lighting installation by architect Matteo Thun. When you tire of gazing up, look outside for a stellar view of the baroque Altstadt—or, in summer, go outside and eat on the terrace. Sepp Schellhorn, the chef at Goldegger Seehof—also a cookbook author and (for his sins) president of the Austrian Hotelier's Association—is at the helm.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
