Rome seems to have its own gravitational pull, attracting not only millions of tourists each year, but also the most creative artists and thinkers of every era. All that surrounds a visitor in Rome—the stunning art and architecture, the terrible traffic, the grandeur of scale and the lively (almost hyperanimated) citizens—guarantees an unforgettable trip.
The "Eternal City" is a supreme palimpsest. The ruins of pagan temples have become the foundation of Christian churches, ancient theaters have been made into medieval family fortresses, and Corinthian columns support new walls. The ages are layered, one atop the other, but the flow of Roman life is ever forward, with a respect for its glorious past.
Rome wasn't built in a day, so don't expect to see it in one. The historic center alone could absorb a week: the Michelangelo-designed Campidoglio, the Pantheon, the Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum, as well as the nearby Colosseum and Nero's Golden House. The basilicas take a little longer because they are spread throughout the city.
If it's views you're after, climb the dome of St. Peter's or admire the panorama from the top of the Spanish Steps (better yet, from the Pincio Gardens above it) at sunset. Or, survey the Forum at night from the Capitoline. Bustling, beautiful Rome, sprawling among its seven hills, is fascinating for both its ancient and its modern wonders.
Of course, not everyone loves Rome: Some dislike the city's untidiness and seeming disorganization. But give la bella citta a chance to charm or risk missing something magnificent
WHEN TO GO
The best time to visit Rome is at the beginning or the end of the long Roman summer—April to June and then again in late September through October. You'll still get long days of warm sunshine but avoid the peak tourist crowds at the key sights, as well as the sweltering mid-summer heat.
Offices and shops in Italy are closed on the following national holidays: January 1, Easter Monday, April 25 (Liberation Day), May 1 (Labor Day), August 15 (Assumption of the Virgin), November 1 (All Saints' Day), December 8 (Feast of the Immaculate Conception), December 25 (Christmas Day), and December 26 (Santo Stefano).
HOW TO GET THERE
Rome is served by two airports (www.adr.it). The Leonardo Da Vinci Airport (also known as Fiumicino after the suburb of Rome where it is located) is the main international hub served by the American carriers and larger international carriers. Fiumicino airport is conveniently linked to central Rome by the Leonardo Express, a direct train service that runs every 30 minutes to Rome's central rail station (Stazione Termini; www.trenitalia.com) between 6:30 a.m. and 11:30 p.m. That service costs 9.5€ ($11.30) and tickets must be stamped before you board the trains on the platform's validating machines.
Ciampino Airport is a much smaller, largely domestic option that has grown recently due to the increasing number of low-cost airlines who use it. From Ciampino, you can take the Terravision Coach buses to Via Marsala next to Stazione Termini for 8.00€ ($9.50). The journey takes about 45 minutes and you can book tickets online at www.terravision.it. From Stazione Termini you can easily take a taxi on to your destination or connect via Rome's Metro which has several lines running through the station.
GETTING AROUND
Taxis Although Taxis seem plentiful, there is never an empty one available when you need it. Call ahead or have your hotel or restaurant do it for you. The meter begins at 2.35€ for the first 3km (1 3/4 miles) and goes up after that .78€ per kilometer. Each suitcase costs 1€, and on Sunday, a 3.35€ supplement is assessed. There's another 4.90€ supplement from 10 p.m. to 7 a.m. A 10% tip is expected.
Train The Metro is the fastest way to get around Rome's clogged streets. Trains run daily from 5:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. Tickets must be purchased in advance from tabacchi (tobacco shops, most of which display a sign with a white T on a brown background). They are also sold at many newsstands and in vending machines at all stations. Considering the expense of getting around by taxi, the transit system is an excellent value. You can purchase single ride tickets for 1€, an unlimited day pass for 4€, a 3 day pass for 11€, or a weekly pass for 16€ (www.metroroma.it).
Bus and Tram The same tickets are valid for Rome's network of buses and trams. You can obtain a complete transit map with all the routes at the office of ATAC (Azienda Tramvie e Autobus del Comune di Roma, 6 4695 2087, www.atac.roma.it), next to the Stazione Termini at 59 Via Volturno.
By Car All roads might indeed lead to Rome, but driving on them is a daunting prospect. The city's mind boggling network of winding one-way medieval streets and chronic parking shortage is enough to dissuade any visitor from trying to see Rome by car. However, you will need wheels if you plan to explore the countryside around Rome or drive on to another destination. All the major international car rental agencies have locations at the airports and in central Rome. If you're driving in or out of the city, ask your hotel to help you map out your route before hand, paying special attention to the one-way streets.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Sights—The ancient Forums, the Palatine Hill, Trajan's Markets, the Campidoglio and the Colosseum; St. Peter's Basilica; the fountains of Piazza Navona; the Spanish Steps; the Pantheon; Trevi Fountain; Circus Maximus; the catacombs and monuments along the ancient Appian Way; Piazza del Popolo and the Pincio gardens above it; Castel Sant'Angelo.
Museums—The Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel; sculptures, frescoes and the Tabularium of the Capitoline Museums; phenomenal art at the Galleria Borghese; the privately owned Galleria Doria Pamphilj; the unique paintings in Palazzo Barberini; the modern works at the Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna; history's layers at the Museo Nazionale Crypta Balbi.
Memorable Meals—Linguine with lobster sauce followed by baked turbot at Ristorante da Vincenzo; fried filet of codfish with zucchini flowers and artichokes Guida at Piperno; sliced, aged beef with fresh basil and Parmesan cheese at Da Tullio; brusque service and celebrities in the spartan Pizzeria Panattoni "Ai Marmi"; nouvelle cuisine at LAntico Arco, atop the Gianicolo Hill; wandering the ancient street with slices from any pizzeria al taglio (takeaway); a picnic from the gourmet deli Volpetti.
Late Night—Fine jazz at Alexanderplatz; kitsch at Jonathan's Angels; a quiet drink at the swanky Antico Caffe della Pace; dancing at Zoobar or other Testaccio hot spots; late-night vistas from atop the Gianicolo Hill, at the electric Piazza Navona or while walking from Piazza Venezia to the Colosseum.
Walks—A leisurely walk from the top of the Spanish Steps to the Pincio Gardens at dusk; a daytime walk through the outdoor market at Campo dei Fiori; an excursion from the Trevi Fountain to the Pantheon before or after dinner; a nighttime trek to view the Colosseum and the ruins of the Forums beautifully illuminated; a stroll in the picturesque open spaces of Villa Borghese and Villa Pamphilj.
Especially For Kids—A visit to the Museum of Roman Civilization (Museo della Civilta Romana); the Bioparco zoo in Villa Borghese and its Children's Farm; go-karts on the Pincio; climbing the dome of St. Peter's; sticking your hand in La Bocca della Verita (the Mouth of Truth); searching for animals and other hidden pictures on fountains and monuments; indulging in gelato and pizza.
PLACES TO EAT
DAL CAVALIER GINO
4 Vicolo Rossini Pantheon Tel: 39 06 687 3434
Good centro storico trattorias are hard to find, and Gino's is no exception: It's tucked away in a tiny cul-de-sac just around the corner from the Camera dei Deputati, the lower house of the Italian parliament. It pays to book, as the place tends to fill up with homesick deputati who come for the next best thing to mamma's cooking. The day's specials are chalked up at the entrance to this rustic time capsule; they generally include Roman classics like tonnarelli cacio e pepe (pasta with crumbled sheep's cheese and plenty of black pepper) and seppie e piselli (cuttlefish stewed with peas). The wine is onesto, as they say around these parts: gratifyingly low in price.
At Il Convivio, imposingly formal decor is matched by impeccable, equally formal service. The three dining rooms are always busy, with a well-heeled, elegant crowd that doesn't mind the prices (i.e., plenty of silver-haired businessmen). The Troiani brothers turn out perfectly executed dishes, including a risotto with herbs, Roman cheese, and favas, and a sage-scented roasted pigeon with red wine and cherry sauce. The extensive wine list, with bottles from all over the world, is another pleasure.
Closed Sundays, and for lunch on Mondays.
To Book or Enquire
Please call us now on +61 2 8270 4866.
Our Opening hours are 9am to 6pm Monday to Friday (except on public holidays).
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